Here in Italy, there is a shop selling gelato, seemingly on every block. The vast majority claim to be “artigianale”— which implies handmade, high quality, special recipes, fresh ingredients, etc. My good friend who makes biological artisan ice cream tells me that of the 20,000 or so gelaterias in Italy, maybe 200 are truly artigianale and of those, maybe 20 are really biological. I feel the same can be said for leather products.
I began sewing leather with the idea of using my mother’s sewing machine. Of course it wasn’t strong enough. In New York City in the 1960s there was a thriving wholesale leather trade on Spring Street (now the heart of fashionable Soho) and also a number of stores that sold tools for constructing handmade leather products. Today that is all gone. There are a few business left in New York that sell to shoe repair shops but for the most part the internet has become the source for hand tools. Here are some of the basic tools for hand sewing leather:
Slit punches—they come in various sizes and styles. There are straight slits, diamond-shaped and multi miniature round holes. Each is used for a different style of s stitching which we will discuss in another blog.
Hole punches—you can find them in various diameters and shapes; round, oval and oblong are the most common.
Awls—the point of this tool has a diamond shape and is needle-sharp. There are basically two styles. One incorporates thread (I’ve never used that one) and the other is for making holes prior to stitching. You use a pricking tool to indent the leather so you know where to put the awl.
Needles—these are selected by the size of the thread being used and type of point desired, which can be blunt if you’ve already made holes, pointed and triangular point (very sharp) which can be used on thin leather for freehand stitching.
Scissors—I’ve had the same pair of scissors for 50+ years. A good quality pair is imperative and they must be kept sharp. With more practice one will use a knife in place of a scissor.
Hammers—the classic hammer is made from rolled rawhide. Other hammers are constructed from very hard plastics and some are rubber or copper. Most always they are two-sided. I use one side for pounding tools and the other for flattening seams after gluing or stitching. Metal hammers are not recommended as they can too easily scar leather.
Setting tools—There are hand tools to set (affix) rivets, eyelets, snaps, and a myriad of other accessories. There are also hand-powered press tools that use different attachments to assure a well centered and securely fitted accessory. They are a bit costly but very useful.
Waxed thread—multi-strand woven polyester is pretty much the standard. It is very strong and comes in many diameters .04-.06mm for small products or .08-0.1 for larger ones. Waxed linen is also often used. Linen and cotton threads tend to be flat while polyester ones are round. In choosing a multi-strand thread, gently try to fray an end with your fingernail. If the strands separate easily it is not a good quality thread.
Knives—They must be sharp, sharp, sharp! Many people use the snap-off type of disposable blade. You don’t have to worry about sharpening these and they are available in many shapes and sizes. Which one you use, depends on what type of leather, the thickness, and the pattern you’re cutting. The traditional type used by shoemakers are simple but need constant attention to sharpening and a goodly amount of practice to use. Watching a skilled shoemaker shape a piece of leather with his favorite knife is a joyous performance.
Measuring and Guides—Various straight edge rulers are essential. A cutting mat with lines is also very helpful as is an assortment of metal triangles of various sizes. I use spring-loaded clamps to hold the leather in place and also weights which I have made by putting pennies in a jar. You’d be surprised how heavy a small jam container full of 1 and 2 penny coins can be.
As in any craft, the rule is: Use the right tool for the right task! Measure twice, cut once.